Make tomato sauce from tomatoes
To get that flavor into my sauce, I consulted several cookbooks, and settled on the idea of turning a portion of the purée into a tomato pastelike extract in hoe maak je een poll op facebook the oven, called estratto in Italian.
Video: Serious Eats Video, get the Recipe, more.There are far more varieties of tomato than this, but it isn't practical to test them all, and, frankly, most other varieties, such as most heirlooms, require paying a premiummaking them a prohibitively expensive option for sauce.Whoa, whoa, whoa, I can hear you saying already.Actually, four ways: I also did a batch with crushed red pepper, and loved the subtle warm heat it added to the sauce.But I'm willing to add a little extra water from a small portion of beefsteaks or other juicy tomatoes if it means I can get a little bit of their flavor in the mix.The Amish Pastes produced a purée that was sweet, mild, slightly tart, and fruity.According to Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, this quick-boil method allows pectins to thicken the sauce much more effectively, requiring less overall sauce reduction (and therefore producing a fresher-tasting sauce!).The method I know best is one I used when working on farms in Italy, where we would make vats of sauce each week in the peak of summer.I had gotten the idea while thinking about the common practice of adding a splash of high-quality uncooked olive oil at the end of cooking to get its great taste into the dish.To avoid the texture issue, you can use Marcella Hazan's method of submerging raw onion halves in the simmering sauce and then fishing them out whole.The reason for this has to do with how temperature affects enzyme activity and flavor, but for large quantities of sauce, I also find this method impractical.Photograph: Daniel Gritzer Sautéing the aromatics first produced a sauce that was sweeter and richer, with the aromatics melting more fully into the sauce.Because so much evaporation is required to reach the concentrated stage I was going for here, I used only paste tomatoes for this portion of the recipeI'd rather let the small portion of beefsteaks in the batch contribute their water elsewhere than have to cook.On that note, I also preferred my sauce without cheese, which shocked me, because I always put cheese on pasta with tomato sauce, but this sauce really is that goodtoo much other stuff just gets in the way.I figured, if it works for olive oil, why shouldn't it work for tomatoes?
Canning requires intense heat and cooking, which kills any trace of fresh tomato flavor.
Another approach is to divide the sauce into two parts, one long-cooked, one quick-cooked, and then blend them back together.If we don't have this, we might as well throw in the towel and stick with canned tomatoes 365 days of the year.To be clear, the flavors of my tomatoes are particular to the ones I bought.The only hard part for most of us is getting our hands on tomato plant cuttings.From left are three types of plum tomatoSan Marzano, Amish Paste, and Romaand then a beefsteak at far right.I cut each type into chunks and cooked them separately to see how they'd turn out.Next, the Amish Pastes were mealy and soft, with the lowest amount of seed.
It's a quick enough cooking time that the fresh tomato flavor isn't lost, but long enough that the pulp will pass* through a food mill or vegetable strainer.
The food mill, a simple, old-fashioned tool, is an easy and efficient way to strain seeds and skins from tomato purée.
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